20 December, 2010

Home is whenever I'm with you

The plethora of songs out there about California, California girls, and California thuggin' that I usually listen to when I'm getting pumped up on my way home stayed off this time. Instead, I just kind of sat and thought about what had just happened. Did it happen? This blog tells me yes, so I suppose it is good I kept one lest it all be believed a dream. And I supposed I felt different, so that was pretty telling. Yes, that was it. Even though it seemed like no time had past between this flight and my flight into Mexico City, I was different and I was taking some different things back with me as luggage.

First, squatting muscles. Rarely did my cheeks touch los baños mexicanos. Speaking of which, next, I bring my "taco ass" as it has been lovingly called by a certain family member. Really, it's not that bad, despite my Mexpandable Waistline adventures. I've also got a few more spanish speaking skills (I promise, Dad). I love that I could probably carry on a conversation with a native spanish speaker. It wouldn't be perfect, and they would be given several opportunities to laugh and correct, but I could most likely get a point across. I think what I am most glad to be taking home is the confidence and desire to live abroad. I feel as though I could go back to Mexico anytime, rock the crazy bus system, ask for directions, find food, ask for a receipt, inquire as to who built the ruins, etc. I would not have considered this as much of a possibility before this semester. I've learned how to integrate into a culture and appreciate vast differences as well as striking similarities. I feel as though I have tapped into a tiny piece of what is beyond our borders, been shown the immeasurable amount of knowledge I do not know, and been giving the desire and confidence to pursue it. These may seem like big statements, but I promise you, I only claim to have scratched the surface. Well, I guess you have to start somewhere! So who knows what this will look like in the future. I would love to go back to live for a bit at some point in my life; soon, not soon, with family, as an elderly abuelita...quien sabe...

Anyways, home. Call me cheesy, but the title of this blog is more than just a line from one of my favorite songs. With all of the happenings of the last couple weeks, the end of the semester and the returning home, I've been amazed by how true it is that the people make the home. This may have been the obvious conclusion of my reflection and joy at being home, but it also made me realize something about my semester. Our group, in a way, made a sort of home in Puebla. We were constantly with each other, doing everything from cooking a meal, to talking about how said meal affected our bowel movements, from driving hours on end to rejoicing in our arrivals, from learning what makes each other pissed to learning what makes each other laugh. We became somewhat of a family and I feel incredibly blessed to have had a home in Mexico with them.

Now, I am back in my own bed, with my parents sleeping down the hall, and my coughing nephew and sister next door. The window above my head lets the cool and sweet-smelling air waft over my face just as it always has, and my Legolas stand up in the corner glances down at me with love, having waited motionless and with baited breath for my return. Sitting around the kitchen with my entire family tonight brought so much joy that I physically felt happy shivers in my stomach and heart. It is wonderful to be home.

Thank you for your loyalty, dear readers. It has been a pleasure sharing my journey with you. Have a very Merry Christmas!!!

19 December, 2010

Playa del Puebla

Here we are, in paradise for the last week. Through the generosity of a group member’s mother, who is a saint, we have been able to stay in a five star resort for what we paid per night at most of the hostels we stayed in. It is beautiful here, but very different. I think I experienced the greatest culture shock of the semester when we arrived. The Riviera Maya, which extends from Cancun down the Caribbean side of the Yucatan peninsula, is heavily speckled with resorts and seemingly run entirely on tourism. All of a sudden, we were thrown into an environment populated by Americans and Canadians, where everyone speaks English, and about 95% of the only Mexicans around are the workers. They were all super nice, and appreciated us speaking Spanish to them, but it was still very different.
That being said, it has been an incredible week. Here are some highlights:

-One of the biggest, if not the biggest, pool in Mexico at our disposal.


-Sun, lots of sun. We had a few days of clouds and wind, but got creative and kept ourselves occupied.

-Some of the best beach volleyball I’ve ever played (by best, I mean most fun. This is not a comment on my personal skills or lack thereof). The week culminated in the assembling of a Puebla team which dominated in laughter and testosterone.

-A visit to Tulum, an archeological site located on the shore of the ocean. By that time, we had seen plenty of ruins, all of which have started to blend together, but having the rock structures near the ocean gave it a distinguishing magnificence.



Good location, eh?

-Snorkeling!

-Beaches with white sand and turquoise water.

-Dying Regan’s hair. Between that experience and some haircuts I have given in the recent past, I might just drop out of college and go to beauty school (JK Mom and Dad).

-Resourcefulness. Inspired by the ancient civilizations that populated these parts in the past, who used every part of the boar they slaughtered with their flint knives and poisonous darts, we took every opportunity to use what resources we had. The week started with a grocery run in order to avoid paying for any resort meals. Oh, and who needs to buy water when you can melt down the ice a few times a day from the ice machine on the stove? Also, I began to run low on t-shirts and underwear, and the eight-dollar laundry fee was unacceptable and unnecessary. Therefore, I spent an hour in the bathroom with my clothes. I threw them in the tub, filled it with water and a liberal amount of hotel shampoo, stomped on it as if I were crushing grapes into wine, wrung out the water with my man shoulders, and hung them out to dry. All over the room. We won’t mention that it ended up being unnecessary because none of them dried in time to actually use…Also, while packing, the worst smelling clothes were the ones I had washed. 

-One of the best Christmas parties I have ever been to. We turned our hotel room into a home for the holidays with crafty decorations and creative drinks and food. There was a carol-off (which I believe ended in a tie, but I was quite impressed on how long it went and just how many Christmas songs exist). We also went caroling at the balcony of one of our rooms in an attempt to spread some cheer to one of our crew who was stuck in the room with illness. This led to caroling to strangers who came out to their balcony as well. The Christmas cheer cannot be contained.

Each of the stockings had one of our names on it. 

Dressing the part is easy when Mexico colors are the same as Christmas ones. 



-Being with (almost) the entire Puebla group the whole time. I could have stayed in a shack on the beach with these folks and loved it. We had one last chance to bond, get to know each other, cook together, live together, and most of all laugh together. Our group is so diverse (and really, every single one of these people are pretty weird) but we just click. I’m so grateful for each and every one of them!

As I write this, it is the night before my flight home. I don’t think anyone is really sure how to feel. We are all excited and ready to go home but also sad this is coming to an end. I guess we’ll see. Next post will be written from California!!!

17 December, 2010

Rafting, Riding, and Ruins


Well, it has been awhile, and I apologize for the delay. Much has happened since the last entry but I think I may skip over it for now. Brief update though: Classes and finals (of which I had none) ended for me on Thanksgiving. Lisette put on a huge fancy dinner for Thanksgiving at a restaurant for our group, our host families, and a ton of other important people somehow connected to us that we didn’t know. The dinner included staples such as turkey, cranberries, and sweet potatoes, but in strange and beautiful arrangements; the kinds of dishes that include garnishes with questionable edibility. But it was wonderful, we had fun, sang Be Our Guest to all present and it was all paid for by Notre Dame. Score.
All the roomies together for one last bash. 
The next day we headed to Oaxaca (which was incredible and will hopefully show up on this blog in the near future) and then I pretty much hung out for a week. I slowly packed, unpacked, explored Cholula more, and had a wonderful “Roomie Comida” with all of my suitemates before leaving. By the end, I was ready to go, the only thing I was sad about was not visiting Tacos Isreal one last time and leaving my roommate, Nalleli.  After much tears and *te quiero mucho*’s I set off with the group for our last big hurrah trip. And that is where I shall begin my tale…



On a night bus, we headed down to the great state of Chiapas, Mexico to the town of San Cristobal de las Casas. It was a cute little town with cobblestone roads and colorful houses and shops. After arriving in the morning, dropping our baggage at the hostel (of which everyone has at least two rolling massive suitcases because we are carrying all of our stuff from the semester and acquired Mexico treasures)  and being a group of hungry grumpy gills, we ate some bagels and set off for our first adventure: Canyon de Sumadera. Our group of 13 took a colectivo to a loading dock bought some tour tickets (lifejackets included) and set off into the crocodile infested river. It was unbelievable. It was liken unto the scene in Fellowship of the Ring after the fellowship leave Lothlorian and takes boats to the scene of the last battle of the movie (right before Sam and Frodo having their oh so touching moment of loyalty and lack of swimming skills…I made a promise, Mr. Frodo!...regresando al punto…). I kept looking for massive statues of elder kings holding out their palms, beckoning us forward or warning us to stay away. The river flowed through this canyon that towered over us on either side we stopped a couple times for crocodile and spider monkey watching. There were moments in which everyone was exclaiming about the miraculous view as well as moments in which the entire boat was silent and reflective.  The pictures do not do it justice but hopefully can give you a little taste of what we saw. It was, without a doubt, one of the coolest natural wonders I’ve ever seen. We landed safely, considered hitchhiking back, concluded that was a bad idea, and passed out in our hostel of pure exhaustion.

The Crew

One of many crocodiles


I found my retirement home...


Our fearless tour guide. This was an attempt at a foto familiar but his son sat down too quickly. 


Chastity, my loyal steed. 



San Cristobal Day 2: Horses! We mysteriously ran into the same woman advertising her horse services on the first day and decided to take her up on it. The large group of us trod, cantered, galloped, and groaned in pain a bit through the beautiful countryside. I dubbed my horse with the name of Chastity, due to its white and pure hair and mane. We rode in a group and sometimes the horses competed on their own accord for the lead, but Chastity was patient, serene, and enduring. Claro. Not to mention majestic. However, I was left with a few bruises…

Maggie and I at Misol Ha
Our next Chiapas stop was in the town of Palenque. There really wasn’t much going on there besides the few tourist spots and hotels for visitors looking to explore them. First we had a waterfall day and went to Misol Ha and Aguas Azules. Misol Ha was a big waterfall that we could climb in and around, including a cave we waded through with flashlights. Aguas Azules was this series of waterfalls that cascaded into pools. Some parts were all raging white water and some were calm enough to swim in. A mysterious rope hanging from a tree over the water led to some great tarzaning into the water. And by tarzaning, on my part, I mean swinging and bellyflopping, though others were more graceful.







Under the Misol Ha waterfall

Aguas Azules...not quite blue, but cool nonetheless

I spy a creepy rock water monster...
 
Climbing trees



The next day we visited the Palenque ruins, which to me, were the most impressive we’ve seen. We were able to climb all over them, exploring houselike structures as well as places which inevitably were sites of human sacrifices. I took a sitting break with a couple others at the top of the tallest pyramid to soak in the incredible view it offered. I looked down at an ancient city with a background of jungle-covered mountains that seemed to stretch infinitely. I wondered what it was like when it was populated by it’s original Mayan builders and their ancestors and what it would have been like to be a part of that civilization (although, we just finished watching Apocalypto today and for those of you who have seen it, I think you’ll understand that I’m pretty okay with having missed out on that one…).



View of an ancient civilization enjoyed during a picnic on a pyramid.

And then, finally, we headed to Playa del Carmen (a bit south of Cancun). I had been waiting for this part of the trip with anticipation, mostly because (did I mention?...) we were all traveling across Mexico with all of our luggage. This was a slight desmadre, but with patience and biceps, ended up being alright.

Mexpandable Waistlines- I know I haven’t written this section of the blog in quite sometime but right now, it’s almost hard to remember the taste of Mexican food. Along with most of the group, I’ve been working with a pretty limited budget in this last trip and we have had the great pleasure of thoroughly exploring every town’s supermarket for the cheapest eats. A couple days were spent on fruit and crackers. In Palenque, the Super Che market put out free samples in their panaderia section which served as breakfast a couple of days.  I was excited for home cooking before this last trip, but now, I take at least 20 minutes out of my day to fully contemplate Mama V’s cooking and Papa V’s grilling and let my mouth water. Ohhh and Grandma Olga’s peas and Grandma Pam’s ambrosia. I could keep going…VEGETABLES! (this semester, Veggietales music not only brought me joy and smiles, but the new phenomenon of cravings as well.) I’ll cut myself off here. But I have to say, I’m excited to cook a Mexican meal for my family with some goodies I am bringing home and the knowledge I gained en las concinas mexicanas. 

17 November, 2010

Oh, Pacific, it has been far too long...

This weekend (+ a couple of days) we took a tip to Puerto Escondido (PE), Oaxaca, a place with famously beautiful beaches and a laid back atmosphere. From the beginning, we were determined to get there, and boy would it have been difficult without some determination....
The drive there is scheduled to be a 15 hour bus ride, part of which consists of very nearly the curviest roads I've ever been on. Dramamine to the rescue. Well, actually I think it was technically a prescription that the pharmacist at WalMart let me buy after which I sold to the others for 5 pesos a pill. Drug-dealer/mother if you will...I couldn't decide which was more appropriate. But really, I swear on my tube socks that I made no profit...Anyways, both ways we went overnight, but both ways we were also stopped by a blockade near PE. The bus wouldn't take us past the nearest town, so we took a taxi from there to the blockade, walked across the blockade with all of our luggage, and caught another bus to PE. Don't worry, no guns or any scary things, it was just a peaceful blockade between two feuding towns. Well, we finally got to our hotel and went immediately to the beach. From this point on we participated in activities found in the following list:
-swimming in ocean
-being pummeled by the 3rd biggest waves in the world
-boogie boarding (which includes above activity as well)
-laying on beach
-lathering with sunscreen
-reading Harry Potter 7 
-laying/napping in shady hammocks 
-sipping limonada and piña coladas
-playing pictionary telephone
-exploring to find...more beaches!
-delicious sea food
-lots of offers for boat tours 
-not hurrying anywhere
-falling asleep out of pure ocean-clobbered exhaustion at quite an early time at night


A list of things the trip did not include:
-homework
-classes
-computer
-having a sand-free body at any point in time (I think there is still some in my ear)
-camera (not that that is necessarily a good thing that I don't have pictures to show you. I just basically didn't bring anything with me during the day besides a towel, my book, some snacks, and enough pesos to get me through the day)

So put that list on repeat for 4ish days and that was the trip. It was pretty epic. But we are back now, a couple shades darker and ready to start on our last 7 days of school (but who's counting?). Again, I'm sorry about the lack of pics, but use your imagination and maybe I'll snatch some off facebook from those who were good about that. Otherwise, it was a successful long-weekend. Except now, I am sick, comforted only by my Virgencita box of tissues, which has different prayers to the Virgencita all over each tissue. 
-Virgencita...ayúdame con tanto dolor!!!
-Virgencita...líbrame de esta gripa!!!
-Virgencita...ya no quiero llorar, pero no puedo parar :)
But really, I have nothing to complain about.

I stole some photos from the bearded one! Thanks Pat!







07 November, 2010

El Muerte no Espera

So again, I'm a little late on my blogging (I haven't even written about Mexico City yet which was about a month ago! Soon...) but I guess Día de los Muertos was only five days ago. What a beautiful tradition to witness and be made a part of! I think I gave you a little rundown about this holiday in the I See Dead People post so I won't go into it too much, but just tell you about my experiences. Really quick...
The basic elements of all ofrendas include:
-a crucifix
-the image of the person to whom it is dedicated
-at least two candles (many had tons more)
-a glass of water (to keep the dead hydrated on their journey)
-a plate of salt
-at least two lamps (lighting the way)
-one oil lamp
-incense
-flowers, preferable the orange “flor de los muertos” called Cempasúchiles (there was a full in-service in my suite to teach me how to say this word one day last week)

Other elements that are often included are food, sweets, bread, and favorite things of the person being honored. 
Day of the Dead is on November 2nd so the Saturday before, I went into Puebla with my host sister to look at some Ofrendas. The Casa de Cultura had a lot set up that we got to walk around and look at. Here are some of them. 
In the center you'll see a white skull called a "calaverita de azucar" which is made of sugar and is decorated with cool designs and colors. I got to make some with the preschoolers on Friday and it is a lot harder than it looks! They are very common on the ofrendas and in vendor stands during this holiday.

Papel Picado is very popular on this day and on the ofrendas. Also, a bottle of beer or two is a common occurrence.

I spy person-shaped bread...



Lots of skulls...

Also some social commentary. This one is dedicated to the death of democracy.


Full dishes of food are placed on the ofrendas as offerings to the dead.



These were always fun to look at. Any character can be made into a skull. At some of the local stores, there is almost any scene, from a gynecology appointment to a bar, with skeletons for people. 

This was an ofrenda to assassinated periodistas around Mexico.

Whoever said some fresh poultry wouldn't be appreciated?

An ofrenda for all the babies in limbo.

There were also some being set up in the zócalo of Puebla and in the Palacio Central (main government place). Those included ofrendas to the dead innocent of the narcotics war as well as personal ofrendas to family members.

The eve of Día de los Muertos, this past monday, we took a spur of the moment (as in "stop studying for midterms and meet us outside in five minutes") taxi trip about an hour away to a little town called Huaquechula to look at some ofrendas. We didn't know where to go and were at first told that it was all over. But whoever told us that wasn't considering the fact that these families with ofrendas keep vigil all night. We were pointed in the direction of one, walked into a little courtyard with lots of tables, chairs, and a big ofrenda set up in the corner. Of course we had no idea of the protocol and were just standing there awkwardly being stared at by pretty much everyone in the place. Finally the daughter of the woman being honored, welcomed us in, told us about the ofrenda, offered us a place at one of the tables and we were served bread and a chocolate drink. We stayed there for a bit and then left with one of the nieces who agreed to bring us around to some other ofrendas. We were taken on back roads of this small rural town and would never have been able to find them without her. So thank goodness for her kind heart and also to a bit of skillful flirting of one of the boys in our group. 
Each house we came to, we looked at and admired the ofrenda and paid our respects to the dead and then sat and ate. Ohhhh, we ate. Apparently it would have been rude not too. There was lots of pan, tamales, soup (called pozole) and hot delicious drinks. The family just serves everyone who comes by and it really is an honor to eat with them and celebrate the life of their dead family member. It was not a sad or morbid experience at all, but really beautiful and full of life.  They stay there all night, honoring their dead and feeding everyone that comes to visit. I was so glad I got to participate in this tradition with them, even if we were stared at every step of the way. They welcomed us into their tradition with so much gladness and hospitality and I was very grateful. 
The title of this blog means "death does not wait" and it seems as though this is a reality readily confronted and respected by the Mexican people. It is not feared or treated with sadness. The ofrendas honor the dead but also traditionally are offerings to help the dead in their passing to the next life, when they are between their earthly life and eternal life with God. They have an attitude of "the best is yet to come" and truly, it is. 



28 October, 2010

Treek or Treeeet!

Lined up for the catwalk.
I sure woke up this morning to quite the treat. Well, to be honest, I didn't want to wake up at all, but I'm glad I did. I got to take a long morning walk down Camino Real, listening to music, thinking, and watching the world wake up. I was on my way to the preschool I go to on Friday mornings but today, seeing as it's not Friday and all, was special. The kids were celebrating Halloween! This holiday is pretty recently celebrated here, but the school, along with being bilingual, tries to expose the kids to other traditions and holidays etc. So, I scrounged up whatever I could to become Super Erica only to be shown up by a hoard of tiny humans dressed to the hilt!


The woman I report to at the school, Caro, had me announce everyone's costume as they entered the catwalk across the yard. There were lots of vampires and witches, with a few fairies, a Woody, a knight, some ghosts, and several "I-don't-know-what-this-is-so-I-better-make-something-up-which-is-okay-anyway-because-the-kids-can't-really-understand-what-I'm-saying-anyway"'s.
Who ya gunna call!? Ghostbusters!!!
After the modeling show, they started getting ready for a dance. The man in charge had a bunch of pieces of rope that he was showing the teachers how to loop. I thought he was making nooses and got concerned. But actually, they turned out to be Dematerializers from the movie Ghostbusters. Yes, they had learned a dance to the Ghostbuster song. It was epic.


After, classes went trick-or treating at other classrooms. Part of my usual roll is helping with english pronunciation (once or twice in an attempt of avoiding unintentional but obvious swearing), but the title of this blog shows how successful I was with that today. They were still some of the most adorable children I've seen in a long time.
Overall, it was a wonderful morning, topped off by stopping at the usual vegetable tienda and panaderia. Four bananas, two avocados, six oranges, and four eggs for 26 pesos (a little over two dollars). I love Mexico.

The class I mostly hang out with.



On the Halloween theme, tonight I had a new experience. All of my suitemates were going to the dorm halloween party and were insistent that I go. My only problem was, I didn't have a costume. Yes, this was a new feeling. I realized I was getting a little down and wondered why. It is because I am never without a box full of costumes and accessories that I can mix and match with. I literally had nothing. Not even a goofy hat or a shepherd's staff. So I went as a doctor. And now I am going to sleep in my scrubs. Goodnight!




Mexpandable Waistlines Express-

Mexican candy is strange...pretty much everything I have seen is covered in tamarindo and chili powder. Maybe that's an overstatement. I saw some Bob Esponja lollypops sin chili.

25 October, 2010

Mexico Bites Back

I spend so much time talking about what I eat in Mexico that I figure it's about time to talk about what eats me. Sure, I've got the Mexpandible Waistline going on, but it's not the only one. There are some little critters that are getting their feast on over here. I know I've mentioned mosquitos in previous blogs, but mosquito season is apparently over. However, they have some competent partners that they have just tagged into the ring. I don't know what they are, but by the time they are done with me, I may not have legs to leave Mexico. Sorry Mom and Dad, I'm stayin' here.
It all started in Cuetzalan during that plant hike. Those bites ended up last two weeks, and continued getting worse and pussing and making all sorts of substances I did not want on my legs. The orphanage apparently also had their own little colony of predators. While I'm not sure what they are, I think there are a myriad of species getting their fill on my apparently sweet blood. Some are small bloody dots while others give the impression of spider-bites with spread out and tender red surroundings. The picture of my leg actually shows you the best it has been for quite some time. I wish I could show them to you at the height of the infestation. They were red, and festering, and all things gross and itchy you can think of. But Ladies and Gents, I'm on the heal! And No, the shine is not from a recent Barbie wax, but rather from the Neosporin/Benadryl bath I just took. But, to continue to remain on the positive side, I've had my fill of one of life's small pleasures: Scratching the heck out of an itch.